Sunday, February 25, 2007

Out and about

Over the past 10 days I've been out around Christchurch. A couple of days spent out sailing, hiking and mountain biking in Akaroa on the volcanic peninsula two hours east of Christchurch and a few days hiking in Arthur's pass which is two hours to the west.

Hiking re-introduced me to rain and for the first couple of hours it was actually fun to be cold and wet. Ramen noodles taste best when cooked on a Coleman stove and eaten with a spork. Arthur's pass is a lot like Smuggler's Notch back in VT with mountains that are taller. I spent the night in a hut with a couple of Ice friends from the power plant and an old Kiwi who has hiked on every mountain I could name in Africa, Asia, and South America. The hike was in the clouds with occasional openings that let me see the west coast. It was cool to wake up and see clouds below me and above me with a clear patch to see the mountains around me in between.

We were somewhat surprised when two people from the Carpenter shop showed up at the hut. Then again there are lots of ice people around.

Wednesday, February 14, 2007

Bag Drag, flight, CHC

For the first time in six months when I say "I'm here" I don't mean Antarctica.

The night before I left I had "bag drag" where I walked with my bags up to the Air Transport Office (ATO) in full ECW (extreme cold weather) gear. Both my bags and I had to be weighed. I had a checked bag full of my 40lbs of ECW and I had another bag with all my stuff in it that I would carry on the plane. We're still required to wear Big Red the parka, lined Carheart work pants and our huge issued boots on the plane just in case something goes wrong on the ride out to the runway.

After some doubts about weather the C-17 that would carry me back to the real world left Christchurch and headed down to the Ice. I was at Pegasus Field at 8pm; in time to see it land. The handfull of incoming winter-overs got off, I was handed a flight lunch "flunch" in a paper bag and climbed on the plane. When they closed the door to the windowless cargo hold I saw my last sliver of Antarctic light.

The flight arrived at 2am local time and I was one of the first off the plane and through customs. I found my bags easily and pushed a cart a few hundred yards to the Clothing Distribution Center (CDC) to turn in my 40lbs of Antarctic gear.

I've been told smells are amazingly strong when you get back to the real world and they definately are. On the Taxi ride to the hotel last night I could smell the tires through the open window. It's almost overpowering to walk through the Christchurch city gardens, smell the pollen and see a flowing river with several species of birds in it. I've heard the best part about Antarctica is leaving it and the intensity of seeing so much stuff and so many strange people around makes me see why people say that.

Tuesday, February 06, 2007

Six days and a wake-up

After months in Antarctica everyone has their reasons for wanting to leave. When people here talk about how much time they have left on the Ice they generally say "X days and a wake-up." Usually people start admitting they are counting the days when the number of days is somewhere below 45.

February is when return flights get in full swing. People come and go throughout the summer but they are usually specialists on short deployments to do something like upgrade communications gear or scientists who are generally only here for 6 weeks at a time. My winter-over replacement came in yesterday and then the plane turned around carried out about 100 "contract-complete" people who had spent the whole summer here. I'll train my replacement over the next few days and then on Wednesday the 14th (weather permitting) I'll be flying back to Christchurch New Zealand. Everything going to Christchurch is labled with the three-letter airport code "CHC" so most of us on the Ice call it "Cheech."

February is also "Vessel season" when ships come in. Two icebreakers finished opening a channel a couple of weeks ago. The Sweedish icebreaker ODEN went home around the 19th of January but the Coast Guard Icebreaker POLAR SEA has stuck around to make sure the channel doesn't get frozen back up or jammed with chunks of floating ice. The winds were favorable and blew the chunks out of the channel so the POLAR SEA had time to give three-hour "morale cruises" last Sunday.

To get on the morale cruise we were asked to sign-up and then names were pulled out of a hat to see who got to go. Of the 900 people on station at the time about 500 got to go. Luckily my name came up. I started off on early on a Sunday morning and rode the ice-breaker through the channel with the pilot occasionally brushing up against the ice for fun. (I think he liked seeing all the red parkas in front of the wheelhouse bouncing to the side when he hit the ice) The Polar Sea is 400 feet long so it's bigger than a ferry but smaller than a cruise ship. The channel we were cruising throgh was 400 feet wide with miles of ice and mountains on either side. Just out of the water on either side were seals and penguins and some whales even made it under the boat. Pictures and words won't do it justice, but I can understand why some tourists will pay up to $35,000 for an Antarctic cruise on old, cramped, Russian icebreakers.

The station got busier just after the morale cruises. A newer science vessel called the NATHANIEL B. PALMER pulled in to change crews and take on new experiments. I got a tour of her while she was in port and got to learn about how they run science operations on board. One guy I met was a recent Mechanical Engineering grad who was rigging chains and winches for hoisting experiments over the side. (sounds kind of familiar) The motto for him and the other "Marine Techs" who do this is "Strong like bull...Smart like tractor." (don't think about that too hard)

The PALMER had two days in port before it had to make room for a U.S. Navy tanker to bring in Millions of gallons of fuel for us to use over the next year. 48 hours after that the tanker made way for the cargo vessel AMERICAN TERN. The TERN is being unloaded by the U.S. NAVy Cargo Handling Personell or "NAVCHaPs." Most of the NAVCHaPs are big, muscular guys, with a few tough-looking women mixed in. It's a change to see more uniforms on station. Another change is that the station is running 24/7 to unload the ship and the space between my building and other dorms that usually is a parking lot for trucks and heavy equipment has become an area for unloading frozen food from refrigerated containers and moving it into the food storage warehouse. With forklifts and Pickles running every which way the area has been cordoned off with snow-fence so people walking to lunch don't get mowed down. I've started calling the area STALAG-McMURDO!

Most of the food we eat came in on a ship within the last 5 years, though one pig was found in a crate marked "197?" and was recently roasted at a party. We do have a warehouse with freezers to keep our frozen food from thawing during the one month of the year temperatures can get above 32F. My friend Austin works on the coolers and gets endless fun back home telling people he works as a "freezer repair man in Antarctica."

With all the vehicles running around and the station being so busy, alcohol is no longer sold on station. The bars are all closed and the store doesn't sell it. The story goes that back in the day a NAVCHaP got drunk and stumbled down to the pier where he got crushed between a truck and a cargo container that a crane was lowering onto it. Since it's not possible to get rid of the NAVCHaPs, cranes, trucks, or cargo containers it was decided that alcohol had to go. And since it would be a nightmare to figure out who was involved in unloading the vessel and who wasn't every time alcohol was to be sold it was decided we would be a "dry station" for a week or two out of the year. (not that it stopps people from stocking up before hand)

That's the excitement for now. My most recent books finished include Ender's Game and Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets. I've found that this far into the season the only non-fiction I can seem to make it through are short articles and political blogs. Guess I'm getting a little toasty so it will be good to see trees and a sunset again a week from now.